Oriental perfume is the most sophisticated, varied and beautiful of all fragrance forms. It’s an art in which each note, whether a herb, flower or fragrance component, attracts its specific audience.
The perfume house must have an explicit knowledge of which ingredients appeal to each specific customer and be able to communicate this to the public.
The ingredients of an oriental perfume are divided into two groups:
– fragrant substances: herbal, floral, fruit and plant extracts;
– perfumery materials: resins, gums and fatty substances.
For the perfumer, delicately choosing ingredients is essential. The composition of oriental perfumes is the most highly calculated and minute detail, given that it’s not just the scent of a perfume but also the pleasure created in its wearer.
Perfumes are functional by nature. Their aroma leaves a message on people’s memory, affecting their mood and behavior. The ingredients used in oriental perfumes each have their unique quality and purpose, such as stimulants or sedatives.
Most popular oriental perfume notes:
1. Dark Chocolate
Chocolate is the scent of love and happiness, giving a soft and sweet undertone to a fragrance. Chocolate was an oriental perfume component used by perfumers in the past, with its scent “a little sweeter than vanilla” (related to the taste of chocolate).
In modern perfumes, the chocolate odor is blended with tobacco and coffee notes for a more mellow scent.
Myrrh is a fragrant resin and comes from the Commiphora myrrha tree, native to Yemen, Somalia, and East Africa. It can be burned in incense or ground and applied to the skin as an antiseptic or perfume ingredient.
Myrrh was mentioned in many historical documents, including the Bible and Quran, as a symbol of wealth, splendor and wisdom. In Arabian mythology, myrrh is said to be a gift from God that Adam gave to Eve after he left Paradise. Myrrh is mainly used as a fixative and to increase the perfume’s longevity.
Olibanum is a resin obtained from several species of Boswellia, a genus of trees and shrubs in the frankincense family. It’s one of the most fragrant materials in perfumery and is used for incense and its pleasant aroma, similar to that of pineapple.
Olibanum is said to have a relaxing and calming effect, making it a favorite ingredient in aromatherapy perfumes.
Labdanum, also known as dittany of Crete, is a gum resin from a tall tree native to the Levant (Eastern Mediterranean) and the Mount Lebanon region (Lebanon).
Although the resin is insoluble in water and alcohol, hydrolysis can produce soluble resins. It gives a sweet and lingering scent similar to patchouli, so it’s often used in perfumes with light floral scents.
Incense is produced from the resin of certain trees and aromatic plants, such as juniper, hyssop, cypress and cedar. Actual incense burning is not considered an oriental perfume ingredient, but perfumers often use incense material in their compositions to create powerful scents.
Incense materials are used to accentuate aromas and add nuances of color to a composition; they can also be used as fixatives.
Opoponax is obtained from several species of the genus Commiphora, also known as frankincense or true incense. It is an expensive ingredient and is used only in small quantities.
It gives a pleasant amber and camphor scent and is used in mixtures with olibanum, patchouli and myrrh to give light, sweet aromas. Genuine incense perfumes are often described as warm or soft.
Amberwood is the aromatic resin obtained from trees of the genus Santalum, which grows in parts of southern Asia and northern Africa.
It has a sweet and milky odor similar to that of honey, with a faint nutty scent. Arabian perfumers used Amberwood in the past to create an aroma that was lighter than those made by sandalwood or musk.
The bark of the benzoin tree (Styrax benzoin) is extracted into a strong syrup and used in incense, perfumes and soaps. Its oily and resin-like scent gives a sweet but woody aroma, which does not mix well with other ingredients in perfumes.
Using a high concentration of benzoin resin in an oriental perfume can make it seem heavy or sweet. However, Benzoin makes a good fixative when combined with vine, rose or patchouli.
Wasabi is a pungent horseradish-like plant native to Japan. Although the root of the wasabi plant is used most often, its leaves and flowers can also be used.
Wasabi is not only one of the most popular condiments in Japanese cuisine but has also become well-known in the rest of the world. It’s now sold for culinary and medicinal uses all over the world.
Wasabi is used as an ingredient in perfumes, especially those with a strong scent, to give an unusual character. Although the pure smell of wasabi is unpleasant and irritating and can cause burning sensations on the skin, the scent of wasabi in perfumes is less intense and not at all spicy.
10. Curry Tree
The odor of curry is known as the “scent of love,” and the spice is still used in perfumery.
The aromatic bark of the curry tree (Murraya koenigii) is extracted into a syrup, which turns beans and rice yellow, giving a warm, nutty scent to the spices. In perfumes, a curry tree adds depth and warmth to a composition.
The cassia (Cinnamomum cassia) is a plant whose bark, leaves and flowers give off aromatic odors. It’s used in incense and other perfumes created by the scent of cinnamon. Oil from the cassia tree is not considered an oriental perfume ingredient but used as a fixative.
In the past, cinnamomon was prepared only from cinnamon, while cassia was considered a lesser-valued spice. Both were usually added to perfumes in small quantities. Today, the oils of cassia and cinnamon are often mixed together.
In conclusion, perfumery is the art and science of aromatizing the human body. The aroma attracts the attention of our body, alerts us and makes us feel comfortable. Perfumery scents are classified as light, middle or heavy.
Perfumes that suit a taste of light women are usually considered more attractive by men.
Light perfumes with floral and fruity scents reflect youth and freshness.
Middle perfumes with floral, spicy and woody scents reflect mature beauty.
Heavy perfumes with strong and heady scents reflect a mature beauty.
Oriental perfumes are usually preferred by young women, while middle ones suit their maturity best. Heavy perfumes are associated with an older age group.
In the past, clothes were fresher because of the lack of chemical-based deodorants, detergents and soaps. However, these are essential to keep clothing and skin clean.
In addition to improving the appearance of perfumed bodies, beautiful people make a fashion statement to the world. The immaculate appearance of the perfumed body reflects its importance in modern society.
Oriental perfumes are one of the most popular types of perfumes. Both men and women can use them as they possess various fragrances designed to suit different tastes.
In order to understand the oriental perfume, it is essential to focus on its ingredients. Oriental perfumes have more ingredients than other perfumes and have intricate compositions. They are made from a combination of different ingredients that are extracted from plants or tree resin.